Donate a Pint

One ocean crossing down, four more to go! It´s amazing to think that leaving Liverpool was only a month ago. I think that getting up 4 times every day makes it feel like weeks and weeks of sailing. There´s been plenty of adventure with all the ups and downs that make it such a challenge. Living, working and sleeping in a 68 ft one bedroom flat with 14 housemates can certainly be quite demanding at times but there were plenty of breath taking moments to offset the tough times. 

For those who have been following our progress (www.clipperroundtheworld.com has 6-hour updates, daily blogs and photos. Sadly it also has embarrassing video footage!) you will have seen that having fought hard to get into first position after a couple of days, we got stuck in the Canaries for three days without any wind and dropped down to 9th position. The bars, pizzas and showers in Grand Canaria were only a few tempting miles away for days on end! We could almost smell them! 

After the disaster to La Rochelle, we were determined to do better and although it was pretty frustrating, we managed to get back to 6th by the time we arrived here in Salvador. We were reasonably happy with that after our misfortune as we seemed to have more delays in the ´Doldrums´ than other boats too. It´s absolutely amazing that in the middle of an ocean, with thousands of miles for the winds to build up huge waves, the sea can be so still. It really was similar to glass at times and watching the sunsets and moon rising in its refection was something very special. Inevitably though, going nowhere, going backwards and going in circles, as we did without any wind to give us steerage, took its toll on some of the crew and tensions were as high as the heat that was beating down on us. Our only relief was the squalls that brought downpours of rain (and more importantly a bit of wind!) – inevitably that brought the crew up on deck to change sails and then get the shower gel out for a fresh water shower. Normally, washing consists of standing at the back of the boat with a bucket. It´s fine although it´s nowhere near as refreshing as fresh water once the salt has crystallised! I´m not sure if I´ll be as keen to do it in the colder legs though!! 

One of the toughest parts of living on board has been the crew accommodation. When we were moving along, we usually had the hatches battened down to prevent waves and rain getting in. Sadly that prevents us getting much ventilation to the bunk area and 14 bodies lying semi-naked in the heat of the equator, drowning in their own sweat for days on end and not having showers readily available doesn´t lead to an enticing aroma!!  I can´t see “eau de bateau” being a big hit! 

However, I think that smell was preferable to the flying fish that came aboard. They fly out of the water to escape from predators and they can travel for about 100 metres through the air. There were times when schools would fly over the decks. The odd one misjudged it and hit the side of the boat, most made it over but one hit me on the leg! They´re not very tasty apparently so we just throw them overboard again but they absolutely stink!! We were quite concerned that one might get in amongst the sails on deck at night without us realising. One of those rotting away in a sail bag for a couple of days would certainly hide the aroma downstairs in crew accommodation!  The rest of the wildlife was fantastic; lots more dolphins helping us on our way, along with a handful of whales and a couple of turtles. Bizarrely there were birds all the way over, some of which tried unsuccessfully to use our mast as a resting post. We were thousands of miles from any land and still there were birds flying along – maybe they just enjoy the piece and quiet! Crossing the equator was good fun. Following tradition, the Polywogs (those who haven´t crossed the equator´s waters before) were initiated by the Shellbacks (those who have done it before) shortly after crossing at 2:40 in the morning. One of the two Shellbacks dressed up as Neptune and gave the rest of us a good dunking in sea water while we were dressed in dodgy looking t-shirts and pirate gear. We then returned downstairs for half a glass of wine and chocolate – doesn´t sound like much but it was good fun and there were hangovers in the morning! As Shellbacks, we´re now planning our revenge on the new Shellbacks for our next crossing.